“Crowds wouldn’t let him surf. It was dangerous. Yet he kept on surfing,” Morey’s friend Pete Read said on Fox and Friends.
He also recounted a stand-up paddleboard ride on a nice day that went wrong, and the man survived with only one more swell on the horizon.
“He was riding the waves, and as he paddled up the shoulder, he hit the front edge of the wave, that was his first splash. He blacked out, and the second splash was while he was under. He hit the back side of the wave, which flipped him over into the rip current,” Read said.
He was pulled out and rushed to a local hospital, where he died of a massive heart attack.
Morey became a global poster boy for surfing after he invented the bobbin on a boogie board.
“You could paddle in and out like a kayak,” Ray Chambers, a surfing legend who invented the surfboard sail, said.
“Before Tom, you always felt like you were stuck in the water,” Chambers said.
Morey, who has countless paddling and pier projects all over the world and a love for the ocean which translated to his many inventions, died on August 23 at age 86.
Fox and Friends airs in the mornings on Fox News Channel.